The craftmen

Throughout the 19th century, working-class life was revolutionised by various legal and social measures and by the emergence of mechanisation, which changed their working conditions. Faced with these fundamental changes, Louis Vuitton focused on savoir-faire and the skill of his workers, the keys to excellence in craftsmanship.

From the mid-19th century, mechanisation led to an upheaval in the industrial world and a certain depreciation of the labour force. Employers began to seek out exceedingly disciplined individuals rather than extraordinarily skilled craftsmen.

Narrowly specialised professional training was dispensed by various arts-and-trades institutions or the guilds’ vocational schools, but only a tiny portion of workers benefited from it; most were trained through apprenticeship.

In the courtyard of the Asnières workshop, Louis, Georges and Gaston-Louis (on a camping bed trunk) pose with craftsmen, circa 1888 © Louis Vuitton Collection

During the 19th century, the foreman began to play an increasingly important role in the organisation of factories. While the most senior worker was traditionally named foreman, some workers were eventually granted this sought-after position in recognition of their exceptional qualities and good relations with the employer. Such was the case for one of the former workshop supervisors of the Louis Vuitton workshop, Charles Thiellement.

Workers came to the workshops at a very young age, were trained on the basics of the craft, and had opportunities for promotion. Some went on to spend their entire careers at Louis Vuitton, and such was the case for Charles Thiellement.
Born in 1857, he came to Asnières at the age of 14 as an apprentice, and he remained with the Maison for the rest of his life. The talented Charles Thiellement worked his way up through the various workshops and was promoted to the position of head foreman as soon as he returned from his military service. This position put him in charge of a small team of workers. Georges Vuitton described him as “Louis’ favourite student […] a model in terms of both conduct and work”.

Louis entrusted the crafting of certain key pieces to him, such as those presented at exhibitions. These earned him several awards as a “co-operator” of the Maison: 

  • Silver medal at the Exposition universelle of Antwerp in 1894
  • Gold medal at the Exposition universelle of Paris in 1900
  • Bronze medal at the Exposition maritime internationale of Bordeaux in 1907
  • Honourable mention at the Exposition internationale du centenaire de Pasteur in 1927

Georges Vuitton arranged for the Legion of honour to be awarded to Charles Thiellement in 1927, stating that he was “among the most deserving of the best craftsmen in France”.

“Un ouvrier d’art décoré” (An artistic craftsman decorated), an excerpt from the article published in the Petit Parisien on 16 March 1927, p. 1 © Bibliothèque Nationale de France

The Asnières workshops enabled a significant diversification of the company’s business, and indeed was the necessary condition for its expansion. 

Moreover, it is important to note the development of the annual production, which went from approximately 2,000 products in 1878 to twice that amount in 1900 and 1930. The pieces were essentially trunks, hard-sided luggage and special orders, not to mention leather goods (bags, wallets, etc.). Today, in the 21st century, the annual production has risen to more than 5,000 pieces.

The number of workers also greatly increased, going from 33 workers in 1888 to some hundred in 1900 and 1925 to 220 leather workers today in the 21st century.

On 15 November 1891, the Maison founded an independent mutual benefit society for the workers of the workshop in Asnières. This organisation enabled men and women to receive medical care, sick leave and retirement benefits, and it provided for funeral expenses while compensating widows and orphans.

Bronze medal certificate awarded in 1900 to Georges Vuitton by the Ministry of the Interior for services provided to the Institution des Sociétés de Secours mutuels (Institution of Mutual Aid Societies) © Louis Vuitton Collection

The first article of the statutes for the Louis Vuitton fund states:
“This pension fund is founded for the purpose of providing for any worker of Maison Louis Vuitton who is unable to work because of illness.”
The fund also included a retirement system and a disability pension for “any member having at least ten years of membership”.

On 1 December 1908, the pension fund was renamed the “Caisse Vuitton œuvre philantropique [sic] libre” (“Vuitton independent philantropic [sic] fund”) but its purpose remained unchanged: “to assist its members in the case of illness and […] provide them with a pension when they are unable to work regardless of age”.

Leather craftswomen at the gluing workshop, Asnières, circa 1903 © Louis Vuitton Collection

After WWI, the Maison’s social measures further developed. In March 1920, a family fund was created which included a childbirth benefit for workers with at least one year of service, a nursing benefit, and monthly benefits for each of their children under the age of 14. This was the beginning of social benefits. Moreover, in December 1924, it was decided that a free weekly medical consultation would be available to each worker, and would be obligatory for future apprentices.